Collingwood Calling
Once a busy commercial port and home to a major shipyard, Collingwood, Ontario, today is much better known for its great restaurants, eclectic brew pubs, luxurious spas and clear waters.
Overlooking the crystal-clear waters of southern Georgian Bay, the beautiful community of Collingwood, Ontario, has come a long way from the days when it was better known as Hen and Chickens Harbour.
The community has had a few different names throughout its history. Hen and Chickens Harbour was a whimsical nod to the one large and four small islands located immediately west of its large natural harbor, while another one-time moniker — Hurontario Mills — referenced its position as the northern terminus of the railroad that once linked lakes Huron and Ontario. But as the small community flourished and grew into a bustling town, it was renamed in 1858 for Vice Admiral Cuthbert Collingwood, Lord Nelson’s second in command at the Battle of Trafalgar, and who assumed command of the British fleet following Nelson’s death.
The town has long had a close association with boats. As the end of the line for the Ontario, Simcoe and Northern Railway, it was the spot where the trains unloaded and their passengers and cargoes boarded ships for travel farther west to Chicago and Thunder Bay. The return trips brought lake freighters loaded with wheat, destined for buyers on the East Coast and overseas. The massive Collingwood Terminals grain elevator — built in 1929 and closed in 1993 — still overlooks the harbor today as a monument to Collingwood’s proud shipping heritage.
The heavy shipping traffic brought a need for service and repair facilities, which spawned the opening of the Collingwood Shipyards in 1883. The shipyard launched more than 200 vessels over its 103-year run, including the SS Huronic — Canada’s first steel-hulled vessel — along with several World War II convoy escort ships and Great Lakes freighters, many of which still ply the lakes today. The shipyard sadly closed in 1986, unable to compete against lower-priced overseas builders operating on a greater scale. That event, combined with the previous expansion of the St. Lawrence Seaway that eliminated the need to transfer cargo from ships to trains, spelled the end of Collingwood’s days as a transportation hub.
Today, Collingwood has transformed from its commercial shipping past to become a vibrant recreation playground with its position on Georgian Bay and proximity to nearby ski hills. The year-round influx of tourists supports a substantial service industry catering to visitors and the town’s 25,000 lucky residents. Getting there is easy when you arrive the proper way — by boat.
For the most part, the approach into Collingwood is straightforward and well-marked. To the west of town are some small islands to watch for, along with a series of shale ledges, including the infamous Mary Ward shoal (see sidebar on p. 44). As you approach Collingwood you’ll spot a series of red spar buoys that mark the edge of the ledges, so afford them respectable clearance. Once you pass the red marker TN 10 that sits northeast of Nottawasaga Island and approach the green marker TH 11, you’ll see the massive hulk of the Collingwood grain terminal on shore and the well-marked channel leading directly to it. This is the old freighter route and the easiest path to follow if you’re new to the area.
The grain terminal sits at the tip of a narrow peninsula, with the harbor entrance immediately west of the structure. As you enter the harbor, you’ll first spot the docks of the Cranberry Yacht Club ahead and to starboard, followed by a second, private marina that belongs to an onshore condo development. A 90-degree turn to port brings you to the Collingwood Yacht Club and the municipal marina — properly known as Collingwood Harbourlands Park — along the inside face of the peninsula.
The entire inner harbor is a no-wake zone, so watch your speed.
It’s all downtown
Once you’re tied up and ready to explore, you’ll be delighted to find that Collingwood has much to offer visiting boaters, and virtually all of it is within close proximity of the marina docks.
Those looking to stretch their legs after a few days on the boat have plenty of options to choose from, whether that means digging out the running shoes or a bike.
The Collingwood Trails Network criss-crosses the town with more than 38 miles of recreational trails that lead to virtually every major point of interest. The vast majority of these trails are on flat terrain making them an ideal way to get around, while more than 30 interpretive plaques provide an engaging insight to the town’s history.
For a gentle introduction, take a wander through Millennium Park, which encompasses most of the peninsula that accommodates the marina and the grain terminal, or try circling the harbor clockwise with the three-mile-long Harbour Circle Route, with interesting stops including Collingwood’s boardwalk, arboretum and labyrinth. Follow the trail to the top of the berm above the amphitheater for a wonderful view of the town. Or, extend your hike by heading around the northwest side of the harbor along the connected Hen and Chickens Trail for great views of the islands that once gave the town its name.
Huronic photo: Town of Collingwood/Doug Burlock; Trails photo: Destination Ontario
Town of Collingwood/doug burlock
Town of Collingwood
Destination Ontario
After a few days on the water, many of us are ready to stretch our legs further by exploring town, with breaks here and there to enjoy tasty treats and browse the shops. Like any small lakeside town, Collingwood has seen its share of economic ups and downs over its history. But unlike most, its historic downtown has always remained a bright and vibrant community space.
Evidence of Collingwood’s former affluence as a major port with a railway link can be seen as you stroll around town, particularly through what is now known as the downtown heritage district. The first municipality in Canada to be listed as a heritage district, downtown Collingwood boasts several distinguished properties that can be appreciated through three different walking tours (collingwood.ca).
No heritage romp would be truly complete without a night at the Gayety Theater on Hurontario Street, which presents a wide range of plays and musical performances throughout the year. Opened in 1911, the historic theater seats 300 in comfort, its original Art Deco décor concealing thoroughly modern amenities beneath, including full air conditioning and the very latest in theatrical sound and lighting to ensure truly memorable performances.
For a more in-depth look at Collingwood’s colorful past, check out the Collingwood Museum on St. Paul St., where apart from browsing its extensive collection, visitors can enjoy a wide range of interactive programs designed to provide a more immersive look at the town and the events through the past 100 years that have shaped it into what it is today.
Wine and dine
All this strolling can’t help but leave one feeling peckish and parched, but the good news is that downtown Collingwood positively bristles with lovely little coffee shops, tea rooms, restaurants and craft breweries to refresh and revitalize visiting explorers. There’s a cooking school for those interested in learning to produce local fare, and for those who really need it, yes, there is a Starbucks.
For a town of just 25,000 people, Collingwood boasts a high number of outstanding restaurants and specialty food shops — reflecting its popularity as a vacation destination by boaters through summer, anglers and golfers in the spring and fall, and skiers through the winter months. There is no off-season here, so restaurants can afford to hire great chefs and keep them busy year-round.
The town’s tourism website keeps an updated guide to local dining and special events (livemorenow.ca/collingwoods-restaurants) but some perennial favorites include the Iron Skillet, on Huron St.; The Beaver and Bulldog, on First St.; Prime Seven Nine, on Hurontario; The Chipper, at Sunset Point Park; and Craig’s Cookies, also on Hurontario.
If you need to provision after a long lake crossing, stop by the downtown farmers market, located at the corner of Second and Pine Streets. The market serves up a diverse range of local produce and meat, preserves, baked tasties and more every Saturday morning from the Victoria Day holiday weekend in late May through Canadian Thanksgiving in mid-October.
No worries if you miss the farmer’s market because Collingwood’s compact downtown boasts an astonishing array of shops and restaurants in just a few square blocks. Shops sell shoes, art supplies, teas, botanicals, books, local fashions, hardware supplies, home décor items and local art. There’s also a dog wash, just in case.
You’ll also find many spas where you can relax to soft music and let the cares of the world melt away. Most offer part- or full-day appointments, while Scandinave Nordic Spa, on County Road 21, provides an opportunity for a multi-day escape to unwind in obnoxious comfort.
If your idea of destressing involves craft beer and locally produced spirits, then you’ll want to consider spending some time exploring the Collingwood Craft Beverage Tour, which visits several local producers like the Side Launch Brewing Company, Freshwater Distillery, Black Bellows Brewing, The Collingwood Brewery, Northwinds Brew House, Heretic Spirits and Georgian Bay Spirit Company for tours and tastings. If you’re going to do this, then pick up a Beverage Tour Passport and have it stamped at five different locations to win a prize beyond the one in your glass.
Things to do
It is very easy to spend a couple of wonderful days in Collingwood doing nothing more than lounging around town, eating, drinking and shopping without any further cares. But for those looking to explore a bit more vigorously, there are loads of appealing options.
For starters, attend a festival! Through the summer the lively downtown hosts one festival or special event after the next, whether it’s car shows, rib fests, craft markets, music festivals, puppet fests, buskerfests and more. As you wander, you’ll see little signs with QR codes throughout the town, which you can scan with your cellphone to check the latest event schedule.
The whole area in and around Collingwood is very popular with cyclists, who enjoy navigating its multiple scenic trails and quiet back roads. If you didn’t bring bikes, rentals can be found at a couple of places in town including Kamikaze, on First St. The Black Ash Creek trail, to the west of town, is particularly scenic as it follows Black Ash Creek up into the hills of Blue Mountain.
If you like to fish then you’ll find the crystal-clear waters of Georgian Bay just off Collingwood offer plenty of action for rainbow trout, lake trout, chinook salmon and, closer to shore, smallmouth bass. Local guides depart the harbor daily and provide all the gear, in addition to the know-how.
Harbor tour operators offer several adventure tours for visitors, including shipwreck tours, sunset cruises, a popular lighthouse tour and snorkeling trips. Throughout the summer, a range of artists perform free concerts at the Collingwood Amphitheater, which overlooks the harbor on North Maple Street. Follow the music then find a nice spot to relax in the shade and be entertained while taking in a million-dollar view.
The golfers onboard will be delighted to learn that Collingwood offers a number of excellent courses to enjoy, including the Blue Mountain Golf Club, Monterra Golf at Blue Mountain Resort and Cranberry Golf Club. Booking a tee time is as easy as calling ahead. Sandwiched between the Niagara Escarpment on one side and the open waters of Georgian Bay on the other, these courses provide challenging golf with views that can’t be beat.
Did we mention there’s also wonderful boating on Georgian Bay?
With its many charms, Collingwood is very much the kind of place that’s easy to fall in love with. Little wonder it’s such a popular spot with local boaters and an increasingly popular port of call for cruisers across the Great Lakes.
Inukshuk photo: Town of Collingwood/Doug Burlock; Prime Seven Nine website; Town of Collingwood
Town of Collingwood/Dave West
Collingwood Top 6
1: Go for a stroll with an alpaca
You’ll need a taxi to get there, but Alpine Ridge Alpaca Farm offers a unique Collingwood experience in the form of walking tours with friendly alpacas. A picnic on the bluffs overlooking Georgian Bay with four-legged companions makes for some of the most Instagram-worthy memories of any visit.
2: Visit a lavender field
Pose for that perfect selfie at the South Bay Fields lavender farm. Featuring nearly 7.5 acres of lavender, the farm is open for visitors throughout July.
3: Discover the history of Collingwood
Housed in a train station dating back to 1873, the Collingwood Museum features exhibits showcasing the town’s shipbuilding history, along with various special exhibits and a gift shop.
4: Try your hand at pottery
Georgian Bay Pottery’s 3,500-square-foot teaching studio is a great opportunity to discover the joys and challenges of pottery. With 16 turning wheels, a hand-forming area, a glaze bar and a couple of tons of clay, a day in the studio is both educational and tremendous fun.
5: Try caving
Collingwood sits at the base of the Niagara Escarpment, complete with its share of caves. Scenic Caves Nature Adventures offers guided cave tours for a completely different view of the local area.
6: Ski at Blue Mountain Resort
Just 6 miles from Collingwood, Blue Mountain Resort offers skiers and snowboarders 43 runs, a terrain park and a total elevation of 720 feet. Blue Mountain Resort offers rentals, private lessons, and is typically open from December to April.
1 Alpine Ridge Facebook; 2. South Bay Fields Facebook; 3. Town of Collingwood; 4.Georgian bay pottery; 6. Blue Mountain Facebook
The Mary Ward Shoal
Approximately 5 miles to the west of Collingwood and 4 miles offshore the bottom of Georgian Bay rises almost to the surface, forming a structure called Milligan’s Reef or more commonly, Mary Ward Shoal.
The Mary Ward was a wooden steamer built in 1865 to shuttle freight and passengers between Georgian Bay ports. The ship was well built, kept in good repair and sailed by experienced crews who were familiar with the big lakes. Yet on an overnight run between Tobermory and Collingwood in late November 1872, the Mary Ward inexplicably wandered from its route and ran aground on the reef. Although the ship was grounded fast, damage appeared light and the seas were calm, so it was decided to not send a call for assistance until the morning. Passengers and the crew simply went to sleep.
That decision proved catastrophic. By dawn, the formerly glassy surface of Georgian Bay had churned to a sea of steep whitecaps as a fall gale arrived. A party of eight sailors took to one of the lifeboats, determined to reach shore and get help, but were quickly swamped and drowned. The captain sent out an SOS call, with three fishing vessels from Thornbury responding and successfully rescuing the remaining 19 people onboard. The Mary Ward subsequently broke up and remains grounded on the shoal to this day.
What’s left of the Mary Ward sits in about 6 feet of water, where it can be easily snorkeled or viewed from a tender. Eagle Adventures (eaglemaxadventures.com) runs guided Mary Ward sightseeing trips by kayak from Craigleith Beach during the summer for those who not only want to see the wreck but learn more about its demise.
Photo: OSM Adventure Travel website
Collingwood Shipbuilding
Collingwood Shipbuilding was a major Canadian shipbuilder of the late 19th and 20th Centuries. Established in 1882 as Collingwood Dry Dock, Shipbuilding and Foundry Company, the Collingwood Shipyard completed more than 200 vessels over its lifetime, including 23 warships for the Royal Canadian Navy during World War II, and a number of modern lake freighters familiar to Great Lakes boaters.
The last ship completed by the shipyard was the Canadian Coast Guard vessel Sir Wilfrid Laurier. With no further contracts in sight, the business folded in 1986. After being essentially abandoned for nearly two decades, the shipyard property was redeveloped in 2004 for residential use. Now known as The Shipyards, the area immediately east of the former launch basin now houses a residential community consisting of low-rise condos, townhomes and detached homes. The former launch basin is surrounded by a boardwalk, while the area between the launch basin and the dry dock awaits further development.
Notable ships produced by the yard include the SS Huronic in 1901, Canada’s first steel-hulled vessel; the SS James Carruthers, a 600-foot freighter that sank with all hands during the Big Storm of 1913; as well as the MS Chi-Cheemaun and MV Wolfe Islander II car ferries, both of which remain in use today.
Photo: Newberry Library
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