Canada’s Prettiest Town
Dubbed Canada’s prettiest settlement by Queen Victoria herself, the delightful community of Goderich, Ontario, boasts a colorful history and a particularly rich maritime heritage.
You would think that a community dubbed Canada’s prettiest town — and by Queen Victoria, no less — must make an inviting port of call for Great Lakes cruisers.
Although Her Majesty never actually visited Goderich in person, upon hearing a relative’s glowing descriptions of the delightful settlement situated midway along the Canadian side of Lake Huron, Victoria reportedly remarked that Goderich “surely must be the prettiest town in Canada.” That was all it took, and the appellation stuck.
First settled in 1827, Goderich is named for Frederick John Robinson, the first Viscount Goderich and prime minister of the U.K. at the time. The community’s position on Lake Huron at the mouth of the Maitland River — and its proximity to some of Canada’s best agricultural lands — quickly brought trade, commerce and more settlers. Piers to protect ships docking in the Maitland River were soon constructed, along with a lighthouse — the first to appear on Lake Huron’s Canadian shore.
Fishing became an important industry, and the pier was soon lined with fish shanties where salted fillets awaited ships to bring them to buyers in Sarnia, Detroit and Toledo. With its booming trade in both fish and produce, the community grew quickly, incorporating as a town in 1850.
Goderich’s fortunes really took off after the railway arrived in 1858. With its new rapid transportation link, the port grew exponentially, adding further cargo to its already bustling fish and produce trade. To accommodate this, a large grain elevator was built overlooking the harbor in 1859, along with a modern rail station, which still stands today.
A series of flour mills constructed on the Maitland just upstream of the harbor solidified Goderich’s place as a hub of industry and economic activity. The town boomed further in 1866 after settler Samuel Platt discovered a salt seam while constructing a new flour mill, giving rise to a significant salt mining operation and driving even more ships to visit Goderich’s bustling port.
Today, the fishing and flour industries have come and gone, and farmers now ship their goods to market by road, leaving the massive Parrish and Heimbecker grain terminal and the Compass Minerals salt mine to dominate the commercial harbor.
The salt mine — the largest underground facility of its kind from tunnels 1,800 feet below Lake Huron and extending nearly three miles offshore. To date, more than 150 million tons of salt has been harvested from below the Goderich lakebed and shipped to hundreds of communities around the Great Lakes and all along the St. Lawrence Seaway. The activity ensures a steady stream of lake freighter traffic in and out of Goderich’s ship basin throughout the navigation season.
Say hello
Goderich sits on the Canadian shoreline of Lake Huron a little over 10 miles north of Bayfield, or approximately 56 miles northeast of the St. Clair River as it meets the Big Lake. The approach to Goderich is wide-open and hazard-free, with its massive grain elevator and salt mine structure visible for miles offshore as you approach.
Most Great Lakes ports do well to have a good harbor, and Goderich is now blessed with two, each served by adjacent but separate entrances. The larger, newer port to the south is the commercial ship basin accessed by passing through two breakwaters, each terminated with a flashing light. Look carefully here and you can still spot Goderich’s original white lighthouse with its red roof on shore, now partially obscured by trees.
The recreational boat harbor, which was the original commercial port, sits immediately to the north of the ship basin, where a long rock pier extending from shore marks the mouth of the Maitland River.
Follow the north face of this pier upstream to reach the town’s two municipal marina properties. You’ll spot Inlet Marina nestled in a small basin to port as you pass the beach, but keep going and watch for the entrance channel to Maitland Valley Marina hugging the seawall to starboard just a little bit farther along. Inlet Marina primarily serves residents and doesn’t normally offer slips for transient boaters, whereas Maitland Valley does offer transient dockage and provides much easier access to the downtown core. Visitors without reservations should stop at the fuel dock for instructions or call ahead by phone or VHF 68. The marina can normally accommodate about 40 visiting boats with a maximum length of 100 feet.
Like the approach into town, the route into the recreational boat harbor is also clear of obstructions, but it’s still a good idea to stay in the marked channel along the seawall, which is dredged to about 9 feet at normal water levels. Note that the Goderich harbor entrance can be subject to surge in strong northwesterly winds, so you’ll want to keep a firm hand on the wheel at all times if the wind comes up.
For those towing their boat, Maitland Valley Marina has an excellent launch ramp. An additional launch can be found on the north side of the river off North Harbour Road, just west of the railway crossing.
Aerial photo: Town of Goderich, Marina photo: Maitland Valley Marina website
Town of Goderich
above: town of goderich
PLAN YOUR TRIP
Maitland Valley Marina website
Town of Goderich Tourism
exploregoderich.ca
Goderich BIA
goderichbia.ca
Ontario Tourism
destinationontario.com/en-ca/cities-towns/goderich
Ontario’s West Coast
ontarioswestcoast.ca
MARINE FACILITIES
Maitland Valley Marina & Resort Park
The town operates Goderich’s 180-slip Maitland Valley Marina and Resort Park, which offers gas, diesel, pump-out, municipal water, and 30-, 50- and 100-amp power at each slip. There’s also ice, washrooms, showers, a swimming pool, picnic tables, a children’s play area, gas barbecues and Wi-Fi. The facility has 50 slips for transient boaters; reservations are suggested, but not always necessary. It’s worth noting that the marina offers free transportation into town and to local restaurants. It has also put together a visitors’ guide with information on places to eat and local stores, services and attractions.
519-524-4409
maitlandmarina.on.ca
Argyle Marine & Small Engines
Located a 15-minute drive from town, Argyle Marine is a mobile repair service that works on all makes and models of boats. Argyle can also haul out vessels up to approximately 30 feet in length and bring them back to the shop for repairs or winter storage. Its marine store carries a large selection of engine parts, electronics, charts, rope, marine hardware and fittings, and cleaning supplies.
519-524-5361
argylemarine.wixsite.com/argylemarine
Town of Goderich
Town of Goderich
The prettiest town
Once you tie up and settle in, it’s time to see what this prettiest town stuff is all about. Goderich’s downtown core sits around a 10-minute walk to the southeast of the yacht marina, centered around the main town square properly known as Courthouse Park (or The Square). Now listed in the Canadian Register of Historic Places, the Goderich town square once housed the main office of the Canada Company, which helped to develop much of the county. Looking at an aerial view of Goderich, one still makes out the original town layout spreading from The Square in the shape of a Union Jack. Is it any wonder Queen Victoria approved?
Rimmed by a variety of restaurants, cafes and trendy shops, The Square is certainly the hub of activity in Goderich. A farmer’s market sets up shop in Courthouse Park each week from mid-May through October, offering a range of goodies from fruits and vegetables to meats, honey, cheese and preserves, to a variety of crafts produced by local artisans.
If you’re looking to stretch your legs after a day or two on the boat, The Square makes a great starting point to explore. One of the best ways to do this is by following one of three marine heritage walks curated by the town. A series of heritage plaques — organized into easy-to-navigate walking tours — identify and describe the key sites, including heritage buildings, stately monuments and key places that played a significant role in Goderich’s past. History buffs will love it.
One of the most popular sites among these heritage buildings is the Goderich Gaol, completed in 1842. Now listed as a Canadian National Historic Site, the gaol is the original town jail and courthouse. Constructed from limestone blocks quarried from the Maitland River, the gaol has housed several of Canada’s most notorious criminals over its history. That includes James Donnelly, patriarch of the notorious Donnelly family from the nearby village of Lucan. Accused of committing dozens of serious crimes during a 25-year span, the Donnelly family was so feared and loathed in their day that in the pre-dawn hours of February 4, 1880, a vigilante mob showed up at their farm, massacred everyone present then burned the house to the ground.
For a less violent look into Goderich’s past, make a point of stopping by the Huron County Museum, located on North Street. Permanent exhibitions provide an enlightening and detailed perspective of Goderich’s history through the years, while temporary exhibits explore unique or seasonal facets of the local area.
For a serene stroll, explore one of a dozen local hiking trails, half of which are easy walks on flat groomed surfaces. The Rail Trail, the Falls Reserve Trail, the Morris Tract Nature Preserve, the Millennium Trail, the Waterfront Trail and the Menesetung Trail to Sifto Loop each provide stunning views and the opportunity to enjoy a wide range of birds and small animals including foxes, red squirrels and chipmunks.
Goderich is very much a town that’s all about enjoying public spaces, including its multiple parks. Bingham Park is uniquely dedicated to the monarch butterflies that gather there on their epic migrations each fall. A wide selection of natural plants used by butterflies makes Bingham Park one of the most serene and beautiful in town — leading to its popularity as a space for wedding photos. Even the children’s play structures are crafted with butterflies in mind.
Public spaces take on an extra bounce during any of Goderich’s frequent summer festivals. The Goderich Salt and Harvest Festival held the last weekend in August is a perennial favorite, along with the Multicultural Festival in late June, the Goderich Celtic Roots Festival in early August, and the Art In The Park Festival in July. The town maintains an online events calendar at exploregoderich.ca with the latest news and dates.
For something more in the flake-and-bake range, you can always just hit the beach. Goderich enjoys no less than three separate bathing beaches — Main, St. Christopher’s and Rotary Cove — each connected by a delightful waterfront boardwalk. For visitors with mobility constraints, mobi-mats provide secure access across the sandy beach right to the water, while beach wheelchairs and a floating water wheelchair introduced in 2023 support the town’s commitment to making its wonderful beaches accessible to all.
Rotary Cove Beach is where you’ll be able to enjoy the Celtic Blue Highlanders Pipe Band as they “pipe down the sun” every Friday evening during the summer. This annual summer tradition starts about an hour before dusk in July and August, with hundreds of people showing up each week to officially welcome the weekend. Bring a blanket and enjoy a truly unique way of ending the day.
Boredom not included
Once you’ve got the lay of the land, you’ll likely want to spend some time simply wandering Goderich’s downtown for a little retail therapy. Numerous curio shops, clothing stores, antique dealers and interesting little boutiques offer a wide range of unique and local fare, including original artwork and crafts.
Goderich’s appreciation of visual art is evident as you stroll the town, passing multiple galleries along the way. If you like art, you’ll want to make a point of stopping at the public library, which houses the largest collection of works from the renowned (and wildly eclectic) photographer R.R. Sallows. It’s impossible to not smile at Sallows’ whimsical approach to portraiture, in particular.
Visitors more interested in a bit of self-indulgence and personal pampering will find what they seek in Goderich. Allure Spa, on Albert Street, Natural Image Spa, on Victoria St. South, or Eden Springs Float Spa, on Orchard Line, each offer a range of rejuvenation therapies designed to put the bounce back in one’s step.
There’s also the Benmiller Inn and Spa, located on the Maitland River about 6 miles upstream from Goderich. You’ll need a taxi to get there, but upon arrival you’ll find the inn offers a full range of spa services along with comfortable overnight accommodations and a lovely restaurant, making it an appealing option for those who really need a night away from the boat. Have the roast duck breast, or give in to the beef tenderloin with butter-poached shrimp. You can thank me later.
That is one thing about Goderich: No matter what you do or where you go, you’ll eat well. For a town with only about 8,000 people, Goderich is blessed by an abundance of dining options, perhaps something to be expected given its proximity to Ontario’s single most productive agricultural region.
If you’re in the mood for some local Lake Huron fish, try the Park House, West Street Willy’s or Goderich Harbour Restaurant — all will leave you full and smiling. For more casual fare, try the perogies at Part II Bistro, or head for Beach Street Station for dinner with a view of the sun setting over the lake.
Thirsty? Square Brew, located you-know-where, is a wonderful and delightfully unpretentious craft brewery that serves up tasty pints made on-site. For something a bit different, check out East Street Cider Company, which offers seasonal ciders made from locally sourced fruit.
For a bit of after-dinner entertainment, it’s tough to beat catching a film at the Park Theatre. Built in 1950 and located right on the square, the 500-seat theater serves up a range of movies throughout the year, from classic gems to modern blockbusters.
Of course, no trip to Goderich would be complete without wetting a line. With a steady flow of nutrients flowing into the lake courtesy of the Maitland River, the lakeshore around Goderich and the river itself provide excellent angling opportunities.
Smallmouth bass, yellow perch and channel catfish can be found just about anywhere you can’t see bottom throughout the summer months, while in the spring and fall shoulder seasons, the colder water attracts rainbow trout and Chinook salmon. You can catch salmon year-round in the deeper waters offshore provided you have the right equipment, but local fishing guides can help if you do not.
Goderich is also a terrific port of call for the golfers onboard. Those itching to get out on the links will enjoy three local courses to try: Sunset Golf Club, the Maitland Golf Club and Woodlands Links. Each offers unique challenges and stunning views, capped by surprisingly attractive green fees to boot.
With so much to see and do, and such a deep maritime history, it’s little wonder that Goderich attracts more and more visitors with every passing year. While Queen Victoria never made it to Canada’s prettiest town, there’s no reason you need to miss out. Mark a trip to Goderich on your cruise calendar and prepare to discover one of Canada’s most endearing boating destinations.
Photos top to bottom: Town of Goderich; Huron County Museum; Town of Goderich; Craig Ritchie, Town of Goderich; Band Facebook page; Town of Goderich; Town of Goderich
Town of Goderich
The Big Storm
The Big Storm of 1913 holds a special place in the annals of Great Lakes history as the deadliest November gale to date, killing more than 250 people and sinking or severely damaging 38 commercial ships on the Great Lakes. The greatest devastation occurred on Lake Huron where 202 sailors lost their lives, many of them subsequently washing up on the beaches at Goderich.
A severe storm that arrived over the lakes on November 7 brought hurricane winds gusting to 90 mph and huge waves, sending ships scurrying for cover. A second storm that arrived the following day promptly turned the winds 180 degrees, leaving vessels that were safely in the lee of the gale finding themselves on the wrong side of the lake and facing enormous waves up to 50 feet high. Heavy snowfall and driving spray quickly coated their topsides with thick ice, reducing stability even further in the mountainous seas.
In the aftermath of the storm, dozens of bodies were recovered from the shoreline near Goderich. Among the dead were crewmembers wearing life jackets from ships they were not assigned to, suggesting that at least some of these poor souls were rescued after their ship had gone down, only to wind up back in the water again when their rescuers also succumbed to the waves.
A monument remembering the victims of The Great Storm can be found in Goderich’s Cannon Park, along with a special tomb in Maitland Cemetery for the unidentified sailors recovered from Goderich’s shoreline.
Great storm facebook
Shipwrecks
ShipwrecksAside from victims of The Big Storm, Goderich has plenty of other wrecks to discover. No less than 57 wrecks are believed to lie in the immediate area around Goderich, which is no surprise given its history as a busy commercial port.
One of the most popular wreck sites among locals is the collection of vessels found off Rotary Beach, where at least five different ships lie in less than 20 feet of water. Look for a white boat fender around 200 yards offshore marking the location. Respectfully anchor a reasonable distance from the site and either swim or come in with a tender.
Goderich scuba facebook
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