The Blissful Charm of Block Island: A Boater’s Seaside Getaway
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Just south of mainland Rhode Island, Block Island is the perfect seaside getaway.
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There’s something about heading to Block Island that gets my mind wondering. I’m not quite sure what fuels this reaction—anticipation, perhaps—but I know it’s not angst as my psyche gains a sense of calmness the closer I get to port.
Often, it’s nothing more than weather calculations rattling around in my head on these trips. After all, while it’s situated just 30 miles from New London, Connecticut, 16 miles from Point Judith, Rhode Island, and about 14 miles from Montauk, New York, you must cross some big rips on the way, and the weather as you approach the island seems increasingly less predictable than on the mainland.
Still, my musings cover more territory than such basic concerns. Will we find a new waterfront dining opportunity? Might this little island remain true to itself in the face of ever-increasing tourism? Is there a hike or a bike route we’ve yet to try? Have new ocean windmills forever impacted the beautiful vistas of the island’s southern shore? Is there any place more beautiful we can reach on a day trip? The list goes on and on.
Pick Your Port
“The Block” itself covers a scant 10 square miles. Hilly and rocky with scattered sandy beaches, tall arid bluffs, and beautiful hiking trails through surprisingly lush woods and fields, it boasts a single town, New Shoreham—the smallest town in the smallest state of the entire U.S. However, this place packs a lot of punch in the “things to do” category no matter how frequently you visit here, as my wife, Felicia Scocozza, and I, are often reminded.
There are only two ports on Block Island, and whichever you choose for arrival depends mostly on whether you come by ferry or private vessel. Old Harbor, on the island’s east flank, abuts New Shoreham and serves as the principal gateway for those arriving by ferry from Orient Point, New York; New London, Connecticut; and Point Judith, Galilee, and Newport, Rhode Island.
This port affords an easy walk to all the shops, restaurants, and local attractions on Water Street, the main drag in New Shoreham. For private boaters, there is good water and some anchorage access west of the ferry landing. There are also a limited number of transient slips available at the town dock on a first-come, first-served basis. Amenities, however, are slim here. Free pump-out service is available to all boats in the harbor, but there is no fuel and no dinghy dock, so you’ll need to drop the hook and probably get your toes wet coming ashore. On the bright side, several hotels are within a short walk of the mooring area. Call the Old Harbor dockmaster on VHF Channel 12 or call 401-466-3235 for information.
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By comparison, New Harbor, on the west side of the island, is lush with options for private boaters while servicing passengers from New York’s Montauk Point ferry. Also known as Great Salt Pond, this location is among the most popular of Northeast harbors. But fear not—there is sufficient deep water and room to navigate carefully.
Transient dockage, fuel, and diesel are available in this harbor at Champlin’s Marina & Resort and at Payne’s Dock, but not at New Harbor Boat Basin. All three marinas are located along the west bank toward the back of the boat basin. If you’d rather drop anchor than tie-up, ample opportunity is provided east of the main navigation channel. Hail the harbormaster here on VHF Channel 12 for assistance as you enter the harbor. You’ll also find 90 town rental moorings, available on a first-come, first-served basis, right in front of Champlin’s. A really nice touch is the all-inclusive shuttle service provided throughout the harbor for a nominal fee through Old Port Launch, which can be hailed on Channel 68.
No doubt, New Harbor is a busy place at peak season, but a laid-back, go-slow cruising attitude prevails on the water here and that keeps things moving along safely, even on holidays. Just be sure to carry enough ground gear if you plan to anchor and consider the three- to four-foot tidal change wherever you set up. More information on Block Island’s boating rules and ordinances can be found at newshorehamri.gov.
Once settled in at New Harbor, you’ll need a ride to head over to New Shoreham to sample the fare and refreshments at other marinas, restaurants, and the like. If you’d rather just relax on board, all three marinas here have their own restaurants, along with a few boutiques. Both Champlin’s and Payne’s also offer free shuttle rides to New Shoreham for their guests.
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Gotta Love It!
It’s Friday evening on the docks at Champlin’s and 14-year-old Pearce Chakmakian is standing with fishing rod in hand at the stern of his father’s 301 Cobia with twin 200-hp engines. “Catching anything?” I query while walking past.
“You bet!” he responds enthusiastically while lifting a squid over the gunwale and dropping it cleanly into his ice-filled cooler. “I’m getting bait for tomorrow to go bottom fishing with my dad and stepmom. I absolutely love this place! There’s just so much to do here.”
I’m fairly sure Chakmakian was referring to Champlin’s in particular, as the full-fledged marina, hotel, and resort features a heated swimming pool, restaurant, bakery, dock and pool bars, coffee shop, live music, and more, but he’d still be on target if including Block Island as a whole. From relaxing to hiking, biking, shopping, dining, hitting the beach, and sampling the nightlife, there is a lot going on.
To check out the town and its shops, head over to New Shoreham, heartbeat of The Block. There you’ll find Water Street and its side streets—the perfect place for shopping and grabbing a bite as you browse all the quirky shops. Of particular interest is The National Hotel, which anchors the center of town and is just a short walk from the ferry dock, Block Island Chamber of Commerce, and public library. Here you’ll find excellent accommodations, tasteful harborside dining, a well-appointed bar, plus fireside drinks and tapas with live music and a great atmosphere on the back patio.
For outdoor recreation, check out Rodman’s Hollow, a 230-acre glacial outwash basin in the southwest part of the island. Clay Head Preserve is another “must-hike” trail. It offers superb views along the northeastern shore of the island. Hodge Preserve, meanwhile, is a 25-acre parcel that connects to the Block Island National Wildlife Refuge and has marvelous views of Great Salt Pond. Access is also available to Southeast Lighthouse and the North Light.
There are more than a dozen beaches from which to choose for some relaxation time. Fred Benson Town Beach has restrooms, showers, food, and rental items, and is staffed with lifeguards in the summer months. Scotch Beach, immediately north of Crescent Beach, is a white-sand beach with volleyball and swimming, plus body surfing and boogie boarding. Lifeguard-staffed Ballard’s Beach features a tiki bar. West Beach is off the beaten track and great for finding beach glass. For a dramatic view of the open Atlantic, check out the 200-foot-tall Mohegan Bluffs. More than 150 steps down is a sand and a rocky beach area with huge clay cliffs and a vista that on clear days extends to Montauk Point.
Great Eats
When it comes to food and drink, Block Island is on top of its game. On our most recent trip, Felicia and I were thrilled with the fare and overall presentation at The National, Mohegan Restaurant, and The Landing at Champlin’s Marina & Resort. We found Tiger Fish Tiki Lounge and Restaurant offered a delightfully eclectic menu of pan-Asian foods and tiki-inspired cocktails, while Dead-Eye Dick’s signature swordfish and lobster dinners drew rave reviews along with its raw bar, creative cocktails, and micro brews.
At The Oar, you’ll find delicious clam chowder, lobster rolls, burgers, and a full sushi bar. Both The Oar and Trader’s Dock Bar at Champlin’s offer excellent mudslides, the latter featuring a coconut version that goes down really easy.
Everyone Has a Story
Hang around The Block long enough and you’ll realize most everyone has a story to tell about this vacation oasis. Few, however, can rival the legend of Casey O’Keefe. The 30-year-old Long Beach, New York, elementary school teacher is also a staffer at The National during the summer months.
Back when O’Keefe was 17 years old, his cousin was gifted a 16-foot Hobie Cat for high school graduation. The two enjoyed sailing it on Long Island’s South Shore bays but wanted more of a challenge. In short order, they set a course for Block Island, departing from Great South Bay.
Not having thought the plan entirely through, the pair beached themselves on shore near The Oar restaurant, used a tarp to set up camp, grabbed some food, and basked in their glory. Upon awakening the next morning, they were greeted by then-Harbormaster Stephen Land with news that shore camping wasn’t allowed.
“We told him our story,” recalls O’Keefe. “He looked us up and down, shook his head in disbelief, and showed us to a small private dock where we could dry out. Turns out he was a really nice guy. He said we needed to come live and work here. That introduction set me on course to return every summer since. It’s amazing what a great influence a little kindness can be.”
It certainly is, and you can bet that tale now has me wondering some more. This time, however, I’m musing about how long it will be until my next Block Island arrival. Like O’Keefe, Chakmakian, and thousands of others, I just can’t wait.
-by Tom Schlichter
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