The Beautiful City

Located on the north shore of Lake Ontario within the protected confines of the Bay of Quinte, the pretty community of Belleville, Ontario, certainly lives up to its billing.

Belleville, translated to “beautiful town” in French, straddles the mouth of the Moira River where it meets the bay, almost directly across the lake from Rochester, New York. First settled in the early 18th century, Belleville’s choice location on protected waters only a short cruise from the open lake led the community to grow quickly, swelling to nearly 2,000 inhabitants by 1836 when it incorporated as a village. A few years later, when the Grand Trunk Railway arrived, Belleville grew further, re-incorporating as a town in 1850. The construction of an iron bridge to span the Moira River fueled further expansion, and the beautiful town became the beautiful city in 1877.

Today, just over 55,000 people call Belleville home. Its position on the lake — roughly equidistant between the larger cities of Toronto, Ottawa and Montreal — combined with its proximity to major highways and rail lines have allowed the community to prosper. Yet the beautiful city retains much of its original 19th-century downtown core, making Belleville a particularly attractive port of call where most amenities remain just a short walk from the dock.

Getting there is the easy part. Belleville sits on the north shore of the Bay of Quinte (pronounced QWIN-tee), the protected, Z-shaped bay that lies behind the 405-square-mile peninsula jutting into Lake Ontario, otherwise known as Prince Edward County. Protected from the open waters of the big lake, the Bay of Quinte is inevitably calm, serene and welcoming — particularly after an extended open-water voyage. Boats may enter the bay at its eastern end, by navigating west through Adolphus Bay, northeast through Long Reach, then west through the main body of Quinte itself. You can also enter from the west via the man-made Murray Canal. Opened in 1889, the canal is spanned by two swing bridges operated by Parks Canada; clearance at the Brighton Road bridge closest to the lake is around 7 feet at normal water levels, and between 4 and 5 feet at the Carrying Place bridge, located at the bay end of the canal. Vessels that can’t fit under the bridges and require a swing are billed $5.25 per passage.

Regardless of which direction you arrive from, simply look for the hulk of the Norris-Whitney Bridge — better known to locals as Bay Bridge — which spans the Bay of Quinte with about 70 feet of vertical clearance. Belleville sits on the north shoreline just east of the span.

As suggested by the shallow contours of the surrounding countryside, Quinte is not a deep body of water, and sandbars like the one directly in front of the Moira River at Belleville are fairly common. To avoid them, stick to the clearly marked channels.

Arriving at Belleville, visiting boaters have a couple of mooring options. Meyers Pier Marina sits on the shoreline to the east of the Moira, butted up against the large, disc-shaped apartment building that serves as a prominent navigational landmark. Just upstream of the apartment building on the eastern bank of the Moira are Victoria Park Harbour and the Bay of Quinte Yacht Club, while a little farther upstream on the western bank is Crate Marine Belleville. This luxury, full-service marina offers exceptional service with access to fuel, supplies, boat parts, experienced mechanics and all the amenities one could ask for. All the marinas mentioned are within easy walking distance to Belleville’s most popular attractions.

About town

Once you’ve settled in at the slip, you’ll quickly discover two things about Belleville: It’s really easy to find your way around town, and there’s a load of stuff to see and do. Most of the attractions are easily accessed from one of three main roads: Dundas Street paralleling the lake shore; Front Street following the Moira River’s east bank; and Coleman Street following the river’s western shore.

Reflecting the beautiful city’s heritage as a waterfront community, Belleville’s historic downtown follows the river, and a short stroll reveals a wide range of independently owned shops, restaurants, art galleries and theaters. The best way to explore it all is on foot.

Let’s start by browsing local shops because after a few days in the boat, who doesn’t relish a bit of retail therapy? Boutiques offering everything from housewares to fashions to artisanal wares to vintage goodies dot the downtown, providing hours of browsing pleasure. Among them is The Happy Buddha, which sells a range of wellness goodies including teas, balms and therapeutic essential oils. Shops like Pure Honey Boutique, That Special Touch, Miss Priss and Sole Solutions offer all the latest fashions — Quinte style.

To work out the kinks from a longer voyage across the lake, take the opportunity for some self-care while you’re in town. A morning at We Thrive Wellness for a stretching class will quickly exercise those cramps that can go hand in hand with a few days in the boat. Or swing by Beauty Works Spa and splurge on some “me time,” like a relaxing massage or a wind-down in a hot sauna.

Beyond its retail delights and self-indulgence opportunities, a stroll through Belleville’s downtown always feels a bit like a trip back in time, as you wander tree-lined streets with immaculately kept Victorian homes, like Moodie Cottage, the one-time home of celebrated author Susanna Moodie, and Glanmore, today preserved as a National Historic Site in a nod to its exceptional Second Empire architecture. Built in 1883 for the ultra-wealthy banker J.P.C. Phillips and his wife, Harriet Dougall Phillips, Glanmore boasts spectacular hand-painted ceilings, over-the-top ornate woodwork, magnificent period furnishings and what has been described as one of the most extraordinary collections of Victorian animal paintings in existence, including more than 40 works by noted British artist Horatio Couldery. It is the crown jewel in Belleville’s walking tour of designated historic sites, which includes no less than 34 different properties in all, from stately homes to magnificent churches and the historic train station.

A walking tour of a different kind leads through downtown Belleville’s Gallery District, where one can enjoy (and buy) a wide range of original artworks from local painters and sculptors. Stops include the Belleville Art Association, the Quinte Arts Council, Gallery 121 and the John M. Parrott Gallery, among others.

Culinary delights

All that exploring often leaves one hungry, so how splendid indeed that Belleville boasts a culinary scene that’s second to none. Spring, summer and fall are all about enjoying the fresh air and the outdoor views, as evidenced by the town’s wholesale alfresco approach to dining. Multiple appealing patios entice visitors to stop and soak it all in with enchanting riverfront views, many offering locally grown fare complete with regional beer or wine pairings. Whether it’s a quick morning coffee while plotting your day’s adventure, or a leisurely evening meal with a view of the sunset, dining outdoors is very much a part of Belleville’s charm, and there is no shortage of opportunities to do just that.

Located right at the harbor on Meyers Pier, The Pier Patio Bar and Grill is a casual spot that’s literally surrounded by water, ensuring magnificent views in every direction. Nearby, The Boathouse overlooks Victoria Harbour with fresh seafood and live music on the weekends, making it a popular spot with visitors and locals alike.

Also popular with residents is The Local House, on Coleman Street, on the west bank of the Moira. Committed to sourcing groceries locally, The Local serves up a wide selection of tasty favorites and is known for its Sunday brunch with temptations like duck hash, avocado toast, smoked salmon and French toast.

To really enjoy the best of Belleville’s culinary delights, make sure you’re in town on a Saturday when L’Auberge de France, on Front Street, serves up freshly baked, authentic French baguettes and croissants. Finding the shop is easy — just follow your nose, and let the incredible aroma of freshly baked bread be your guide. They also sell a wide range of imported French cheeses, charcuterie, épicerie, pastries and wines, so your challenge won’t be finding something tasty to enjoy so much as knowing when to stop.

If you have any space left in the boat’s larder, then head for Belleville’s Farmers Market, which has been held in historic Market Square on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays since 1816. An appealing range of locally grown fruit and vegetables, fresh meats, honey, baked goods and other tasty treats ensures no one leaves that place empty-handed. But keep one mitt free for a pitstop at Reid’s Dairy, so you can enjoy some freshly made ice cream on the way back to the boat.