Far North Outpost
Change is on the horizon for the largest freshwater marine protected area in the world. The town of Nipigon, Ontario, on Lake Superior’s north shore, is a natural paradise offering world-class fishing, spectacular hiking and biking trails, and soon, it will be home to the new operations base and visitor reception area for the Lake Superior National Marine Conservation Area.
Boaters cruising into Nipigon, Ontario, earn some special credentials for coming into the far northern point of Lake Superior. Harbormaster Shane Hardy awards them with a special certificate that they’ve crossed the 49th parallel.
“It’s signed by the mayor and everything,” the Nipigon native says. “We get quite a few people who come in and ask about it.”
Bragging rights aside, Nipigon is well worth its spot on any adventure boater’s bucket list. This far-north outpost is home to world-class fishing, plus plenty of hiking, biking and climbing. The route to reach this outdoor playground takes boaters through the Nipigon Strait area and the many islands of the National Marine Conservation Area. Part of Canada’s national park system, it’s the largest freshwater marine protected area in the world. And there’s plenty of change on the horizon for this small community of 1,600 — which is good news for boaters and the region.
At the top of the lake
First Nations may have come to the region as far back as 9,000 years ago, following caribou herds and hunting big game. The Red Rock area at the mouth of the Nipigon River was a sacred meeting ground of great importance. The first Aboriginals in the area were likely the Meramegs, an ancient tribe that later became part of the Ojibwe tribe. The rock was used for making highly polished peace pipes and other important objects. Historians believed visitors from far reaches came to the area to make important cultural contributions (see sidebar on p. 45).
The 1600s saw the arrival of Europeans and the French explorers Father Claude Allouez and Sieur du L’hut. The area took on an important role in the fur trade, as a fort and trading post for the North West Company and Hudson’s Bay Company. In the late 1800s, the Canadian Pacific Railway finished its section of the north shoreline here, and the town of Nipigon was officially established.
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Today, Nipigon is home to about 1,600 people. The Nipigon Marina stands in the old spot of the Red Rock Trading Post of the Hudson’s Bay Company. The small marina is located on the west bank of the Nipigon River, just up from Red Rock and the river’s mouth. It normally has fewer than 20 boats docked; transient docking is always available, Hardy says. Currently, the marina offers basic services: Freshwater, pump-out, diesel fuel (not gas) and electricity. Boaters can find laundry facilities and more provisions in town within a half-mile of the marina, including Zechner’s Food Market. Locally owned and operated for more than 80 years, this market carries groceries, fresh flower bouquets, and has a large deli and produce section. For dining-in, the Edgeview at Sunnyside has views of the Nipigon River and serves fare like wraps, burgers, wings, pasta and ribs.
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The call of the wild
It may come as no surprise to boaters that one of the prime reasons to visit Nipigon is the lure of world-class fishing. Fishing, tourism and forestry products make up its chief industries.
“The diversity of fish here is incredible. There are so many species in close proximity in the Nipigon River system alone,” Hardy says, as he quickly recites just a sample of the many kinds of salmon, trout, walleye, bass and perch in the area. “The world-record brook trout was caught in the Nipigon River.”
Just as quickly, Hardy lists off the fishing festivals and derbies all season long, from “tons of little derbies” to the Fall Fishing Festival in September. That event includes a large baseball tournament, parade and great prizes. In winter, it’s a common sight to see anglers pulling their sleighs out on the frozen Nipigon Bay and neighboring Black Bay to catch jumbo perch.
“You can bring your own hut or there are a couple companies here who will rent you a hut,” Hardy says, adding that there’s always the opportunity to go fishing, just for the fun of it, right off a dock. “We’ve got docks out all over the place. You can always see a bunch of kids fishing. There are local bait stations. One has a fridge outside so it’s self-serve, anytime.”
And if festivals are your jam, you’ll want to hit the Nipigon Blueberry Blast Festival held every August. The 23rd annual event will be held August 17 – 18, 2024, and will offer music, vendors, activities and plenty of local cuisine celebrating that wild berry found all over the area.
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BYOB
BYOB — bring your own bike, that is — because it’s unlikely you’ll be able to rent one in town, and you’ll definitely want a bike to explore the region. Bikes and the expansive trail system provide major access to the area and its stunning vistas. (The region has few roads, though Highway 11/17 between Thunder Bay and Nipigon has recently been widened.)
A few years back, Canadian National Railway pulled its tracks out, and today, the old railbeds are available for biking and hiking.
“You really get to see nature that way,” Hardy says. “No road, no highway, you’re in the back of nowhere. There’s a railway 150 feet up in the air. You can look down at the rivers below. It’s something.”
The views alone may be the reason you need to visit Nipigon.
“The views are what get me,” Hardy says. “Within five minutes, we’re out of town, and then we can go 100 kilometers (62 miles) in the bush without running into anybody.”
You don’t have to travel far for a jaw-dropping sight. Shorter mountain bike routes reward riders with incredible views. Like the Kama Cliff Trail, a short 5-kilometer (3-mile) moderate single-track ride with a few challenging rocky areas and a 90-meter (295-foot) climb that reveals Nipigon Bay and its islands in full glory. The Bald Spot Trail is another shortie that leads mountain bikers to an overview of Nipigon and the Nipigon River. Hikers will often travel this route, too.
Or you can try more extensive road and gravel riding, like the 40 kilometers (25 miles) up Highway 585, through dense forest, heading north from town and ending at Lake Nipigon. Alexander Falls Dam is a sweet view along the way.
There may be as many waterfalls in the region as there are hiking and biking trails. Hardy recommends the 25-meter (15.5-mile) Mazukama Falls with its hiking trail.
Bridgeview Lookout Tower is another popular hiking location, with its view of Lake Helen, the Nipigon River Bridge, the river and bay.
Maps for biking, hiking and ATV riding can be found in town and at the marina, as well as online. And the Nipigon locals will be happy to share their favorite routes, too.
Hardy says his ideal day in the area starts with camping: “We go up to a little lake down Cameron Falls Road called Fraser Lake; it’s got a nice, sandy beach. The fishing is unreal, especially the walleye. You can just go and jump on a side-by-side and take bikes and cruise the area, going down trails, going down old railbeds. It can be four or five hours before we come home — we’re just out exploring.”
Change on the horizon
In a couple of years, boaters coming into Nipigon are in for some exciting developments. This spring, ground broke on the shore to build Parks Canada’s landmark Administration and Visitor Centre. It’s the first Parks Canada building to seek Passive House Plus certification and net-zero carbon standards.
“They’ve been working on it for over 10 years to have it put in Nipigon,” Hardy says. “Ever since they made us a freshwater National Marine Conservation Area in 2015, they’ve been wanting to do more here.”
It’s part of the Canadian government’s goal to make the protected area more accessible. It will serve as Parks Canada’s primary operations base and visitor reception area for Lake Superior National Marine Conservation Area, protecting the ecologically sustainable use and cultural heritage of the area.
The building is projected for completion in 2026. In the meantime, the marina is still open, though the adjacent campground will be closed.
Even with this new center, the town will keep its small community feel, says Hardy.
“This is definitely not city life here,” he says. “The closest city to us is Thunder Bay, about an hour away. Otherwise, everything is small — everything closes by 6 or 8 o’clock, and nothing is open on Sunday. This is a small town. People care. This is small town living in the best way.”
Ancient pictographs
Boaters and kayakers coming into the Nipigon River can witness a wonder on the mountain face opposite the Red Rock township. Pictographs believed to be at least 2,000 years old can be seen in the rock, far above the surface of the water, where the Nipigon River flows into Lake Superior. These ancient pictographs and their style point to visitors from far reaches traveling to the area. Historians attribute these drawings to a Mayan influence. Weapons similar to those used by Mayans also were found in the area, unlike the weapons made by local native tribes who used flint in hatchets and arrowheads. For more info, visit redrocktownship.com/community/history/in-the-beginning.
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