Artistic Elegance & Hometown Hospitality
Photo Adobe Stock
Bayfield, Wisconsin, pairs a unique combination for visitors by water and by land.
Our first visit to the Bayfield harbor came with an emergency when our son was just two weeks old.
My husband, Mark, and I were home in Duluth with a new baby and lots of time at the height of summer. Our 38-foot Marine Trader trawler, Mazurka, sat idly in the Knife River Marina. We looked at each other and said: “Hey, we could sit out our new baby leave here on land, or we could venture into the Apostles. Why not make our happy family nest a floating one?”
We packed up our new little guy, Rafael, a supply of food for us, diapers and blankets for him, and away we went.
We were new parents aboard our vessel. We had a little Moses basket we tucked onto the shelf beside our bed and draped mosquito netting over the top. It was lovely cruising, lovely weather, swinging around a hook in calm waters just off Sand Island, with early sunrises and late sunsets, time to be together and nowhere to be.
Until we ran out of diapers.
If you’ve ever had a baby onboard, you know this constitutes a dire emergency.
At home, we were using cloth diapers. But on a boat, I didn’t want to deal with washing them. I packed a box of disposables I assumed would last us for longer than a day. I mean, seriously — how many diapers can a baby go through?
We joked about just holding him over the side of the boat. Then we decided to suck it up and enter civilization.
Our diaper emergency brought us to Bayfield.
We pulled up to the Apostle Islands Marina gas dock and explained our situation to the harbormaster. “We used to make beer runs,” I said. “Now we make diaper runs.” He smiled wide as he took our line. “The store’s right around the corner,” he said. “Take all the time you need.”
Turns out, we wanted more time than a quick diaper run — Bayfield had that much to offer. We spent a few days there, and for the past 14 years, it’s kept us coming back for more. As our son grew older, and we added two more crewmembers, our family of five has returned to Bayfield many times, drawn to its artistic elegance and down-to-earth hospitality. The slower pace and natural beauty of the rolling hills and Lake Superior waterfront, plus its creative, vibrant spirit, make it a unique hub of craftspeople and artisans with endless boating opportunities. There really is no place quite like Bayfield. It’s well worth the trip either by boat or by land.
In the middle of the action
The area is significant to the Anishinaabe — the Ojibwe/Chippewa First Nation — as their traditional home. A few miles north of Bayfield is the Red Cliff Band of the Lake Superior Chippewa. Europeans came in the early 19th century, drawn to the natural resources of fishing and lumber. The town’s location on Lake Superior made it a useful harbor for exporting and importing goods, particularly after the Soo locks opened in 1855. Boats ran until Chequamegon Bay froze over in winter, and then ice boats would carry people between Madeline Island and the mainland. (Today, if the bay freezes over, an ice road is created.) By 1883, railroads came to town, bringing tourists and carrying the brownstone that was quarried nearby. Bayfield grew to 500 people, with churches, schools, hotels and lodges.
Today, Bayfield is not much bigger. Its population, just under 600, makes it one of the smallest towns in Wisconsin. Tourism still plays a large part of its industry.
Photo Bayfield Chamber & Visitors
Photo Felicia Schneiderhan
Above Photo Bayfield Chamber & Visitors
Its location, beauty, culture and history make it a popular place to visit, especially from May until the famed Apple Fest in October. It’s also the harbor where you can jump on the Madeline Island Ferry to go to Madeline Island, with Big Bay State Park and the town of La Pointe.
Because of its protected position on Lake Superior, it offers a number of marinas. Besides the Apostle Islands Marina downtown, boaters may also find transient slips at the Bayfield City Dock, Blackhawk Marina, Pike’s Bay Marina and Port Superior Marina. Most are full-service marinas, with water, power, fuel and pump-out available.
The Apostle Islands Marina right downtown was a favorite with our kids because it put us in the middle of the action. Most of Bayfield’s action is centrally located within walking distance of the waterfront right downtown. Our kids especially liked the enormous play structure built beside the marina in the last few years. The shops downtown also got them walking the hills without much complaint, particularly to visit the candy or ice cream shops. In Bayfield, they found lollipops literally as big as their faces — one of their all-time favorite boating memories.
We often explored the Bayfield Maritime Museum right next to the marina, too. Free and open every day from May to September, we could spend all day there and still not absorb everything the knowledgeable, devoted volunteers had to tell us about ships, equipment, history and, best of all, the shipwrecks.
Just up the road — across from the Bayfield Carnegie Library — we found more history at the Bayfield Heritage Association, with displays of a traditional Anishinaabe Wiigwaasi-Jiimaan (Birchbark canoe), a model of the Bayfield Railroad, the life-size Bayfield jail and a community barbershop.
The area’s beauty and diversity attract exceptional artists of many mediums, and their work is visible all over town. The Bayfield Artists Guild offers a central gallery and retail store exhibiting the work of many area artists working in painting, photography, ceramics, sculpture, jewelry, glasswork and handmade items like soaps and candles. There are many individual galleries as well, showing pottery, paintings and driftwood art. For unique, handmade jewelry, Silverwaves and Grace Hogan Jewelry are my personal favorites — they capture the feel of Lake Superior in unique pieces I’ve never seen anywhere else.
Since I’m a huge reader, Bayfield is one of my favorite towns to visit because they have not one but two outstanding, independently owned, and curated bookstores: Apostle Islands Booksellers and Honest Dog Books. Both are within walking distance of the marina, with their own personalities and tastes, and celebrate and support regional writers and artists. The owners and staff are well-read and quick to recommend just the right fit for anyone who comes in the doors. They also host regular events and readings.
Search for adventure
The search for adventure is a big draw to Bayfield. Besides being a mecca for sailing and boating, the area has outstanding hiking, biking and swimming opportunities, too. Kayaking is popular in the islands, and there are a number of outfitters and guides who will get you the gear you need and take you out to explore the sea caves first-hand. The same goes for seeing shipwrecks; expert divers and guides in town are available for excursions to get you up close with historic wrecks that are well-preserved in the cold water.
For land-based outings, Howl Adventure Center is a great resource. You can rent or buy all kinds of outdoor gear and mountain bikes. They’re glad to share their insider intel on where to hike and bike. Or you can sit back on their grounds and enjoy local beer and tacos. Golfers will love the view from the Apostle Highlands Golf Course, a par 72, 18-hole championship golf course with some jaw-dropping views of the greatest Great Lake.
And, of course, there’s the fishing. Anglers from all over come to Bayfield to fish for lake trout and salmon. It’s advisable to hire a charter captain, who can take you to the exact locations where the water temperature and terrain attract the biggest catch. And if you love to eat fish without hooking them, Red Cliff Fish Company and Bodin Fisheries are two long-standing local businesses that sell fresh-caught Lake Superior fish every day, bringing it directly to market, raw or smoked.
Adventure can come on a smaller scale, too. On days when the weather wasn’t at its finest and when we were all feeling cooped up, we’d take the kids to the Bayfield Recreation Center to swim indoors. It was a great way to experience the community and camaraderie of this close neighborhood.
We first met Bayfield in the summer, and we learned to love this sweet Chequamegon Bay town in the warmer months, but over the years we’ve kept coming back year-round for all the seasonal gifts it has to offer. We return each year in October to pick apples. Even in the winter months, cross-country skiing, fat tire biking and exploring the ice caves from the frozen lake are just a few ways we’ve learned to love this town in the quiet, peaceful off-months.
Whether at the height of boating season when the town is alive and buzzing with energy and activity, or in the quieter winter months when things settle down into a more private groove, Bayfield’s elegant creativity and hometown hospitality are hard to beat.
Photo Bayfield Chamber & Visitors
Photo Bayfield Chamber & Visitors
Visit the Big Top
No visit to Bayfield is complete without taking in a show at Lake Superior Big Top Chautauqua. You’ll need a ride from the waterfront, but luckily shuttles come right downtown to pick you up. Since 1986, this 900-seat outdoor theater — literally under canvas like a circus — has hosted some incredible musicians from around the world.
From June to September, it brings regional favorites, world-renowned musicians and its own spectacular house band, the Blue Canvas Orchestra, to this beautiful setting at the base of rolling hills. The shows I’ve attended at Big Top are among the best I’ve ever seen. I think the musicians really love performing at this unique venue for a local audience who is passionate about supporting culture and art.
To get a feel for the place, check out its weekly broadcast Tent Show Radio, hosted by New York Times bestselling author Michael Perry, available at bigtop.org/tentshowradio.html.
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Calendar of Events
WinterFest: March 1 – 3, 2024
This event offers many opportunities to get outside and enjoy the snow, including the annual Jack Beagan Memorial Polar Plunge.
Concerts by the Lake: Tuesdays & Thursdays, June to August
Visit Memorial Park for a night of local music and entertainment.
Blessing of the Fleet: June
History comes to life with the traditional Blessing of the Fleet Ceremony as commercial fishing boats, tugs, powerboats, sailboats, kayaks and rowboats parade through Bayfield’s City Harbor.
Art Escape (pictured): September 7 – 15, 2024
Art Escape is a nine-day celebration of all things art across Bayfield County and Madeline Island.
Festival of Arts: September
Bayfield’s two-day Festival of Arts highlights the artists who are inspired by the Big Lake. Visitors will find a unique selection of pottery, painting, jewelry, sculpture, glassworks, wood carvings, photography and more.
Apple Festival: October 4 – 6 (see more below!)
Celebrate the fall harvest with various apple orchard events and tours, live music, food and craft vendors, and the Spectrum Carnival.
Santa Arrives in Bayfield: December
Meet Santa Claus and his elf as they make a memorable appearance in Bayfield on the Madeline Island Ferry.
Join the Apple Fest
Bayfield has become a Midwest utopia for apple pickers in the fall. Apple Fest is like a northern Mardi Gras, with a parade, carnival, tours of many local orchards and, of course, food. But if you’re not up for big festivals, you can always visit the orchards and farms at any time in September and October, when you’ll find honeycrisps and Cortlands just waiting for you — already picked and bagged, or ready on the trees for you and your family to capture some historic family memories. Don’t forget the caramel apples and pies! Some popular orchards include Bayfield Apple Company, Blue Vista Farm and Hauser’s Superior View Farm.
Photos Bayfield Chamber & Visitors
Source: https://lakelandboating.com/artistic-elegance-hometown-hospitality/