A Beginner’s Guide to Kayak Fishing

A Beginner’s Guide to Kayak Fishing

Despite freezing temperatures, howling winds, and several snowstorms, a steady trickle of beginning kayakers made their way to my shop in January and February, eager to see what the kayak-angling buzz was all about.  Some admitted to being “green,” while others claimed just enough knowledge to be dangerous.  Beginners with no kayaking seat time are my favorite customers.  Why?  Because they are blank slates.  They haven’t developed bad habits yet, so I welcome the opportunity to start them off right and help them have a safe and enjoyable experience on the water.

My conversations with fledgling kayakers have common themes, ranging from price to propulsion to electronics.  Few customers, however, ask about safety equipment, hull types, or stability.  I feel compelled to impart the standard, pivotal caveats that all new kayak anglers should understand before picking up a paddle (or using a pedal drive) for the first time.  It’s my goal to educate them on the basic aspects of the sport so they can make informed purchases that, in many cases, exceed several thousand dollars. 

(Note: On The Water is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.)

Safety Tips and Gear

Safety is always first. Invariably, kayakers are just one bad decision away from a swim. Last winter, I watched two anglers go into the Mullica River when they both tried to rinse their hands at the same time. The water temperature was 35 degrees and neither angler wore a dry suit.  One had on a personal flotation device, while the other wore waders.  I assisted with rescuing them as they clung to the hull of their overturned craft.  Fortunately, both men were okay; however, given the conditions, the outcome could have been much worse.

It is imperative to prepare and to dress for immersion. When kayaking in cold water, a quality (and properly fitted) dry suit with appropriate layering underneath can be the difference between a successful self-rescue and developing hypothermia.  When layering, avoid cotton, which is not ideal for warmth and tends to retain moisture.  I recommend layering with synthetic, moisture-wicking fabrics. NRS, Level Six, Kokatat, and Mustang all manufacture quality dry suits that range in price from $600 to over $2,000, depending on material, insulation, and intended use.

A U.S. Coast Guard-approved personal flotation device (PFD) is also essential for safety.  I implemented a launch routine for myself a long time ago.  A key component of that is strapping on a PFD before my kayak touches the water.  Your local kayak dealer can fit you with a PFD suited for your chest size and weight.  NRS, Stohlquist, Mustang, and Onyx manufacture different styles of quality PFDs that cost from $100 to $250. 

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A U.S. Coast Guard-approved personal flotation device (PFD) is an essential piece of gear for angler safety. (Photo by Andrew Burke)

Keep in mind that inflatable PFDs are less intrusive but lack storage pockets and must be serviced after they deploy.  Attach a whistle and/or a signaling device to your PFD, along with a safety knife and waterproof floating VHF radio.

I suggest a dry bag to store important items, such as your phone, keys, and extra clothing.  Also pack a first aid kit, manual bilge pump or an equivalent dewatering device (especially for sit-inside kayaks), safety flag, and gear leashes for your paddle, fishing rods, and anything else that you’d rather not lose if the kayak flips.  I once lost over $1,000 of fishing tackle that wasn’t correctly leashed when a boat wake caught me by surprise.

Hull Design

What about hull stability and choosing the one that’s right for you?  The two most common hull designs in fishing kayaks are the tunnel hull and the tri-hull design. The tunnel hull (also referred to as double-U, double hull, or pontoon) emphasizes stability, but sacrifices some speed and maneuverability.  An Old Town Sportsman PDL 120 is an example of a tunnel hull.  At 6’1” and 190 pounds, I can comfortably stand and move around the Sportsman without much drama.  It’s not the fastest hull, but its core strength and stability are an attractive benefit for beginning kayakers.

The two most common hull designs in fishing kayaks are the tunnel hull and the tri-hull. The tunnel hull emphasizes stability, but sacrifices some speed and maneuverability. A tri-hull design cuts through waves better and is considerably quicker and more maneuverable.

A tri-hull design (such as the Old Town Salty or BigWater) feels very different.  My Old Town BigWater ePDL cuts through the slop with ease and is considerably quicker and nimbler than the PDL 120.  However, the primary stability is noticeably different from the 120—not worse, just different.  There’s a “tipsy” feeling when you first board the boat that is mitigated, though, by the secondary stability of the BigWater platform.

Propulsion

Another consideration is propulsion.  There are several types: paddle, pedal (fin or propeller,) electric, and hybrid.  Each mode of propulsion has its advantages and disadvantages.  If you fish in shallow waters with little or no current (ponds or small lakes), a paddle may be your best bet.  Pedal-propelled kayaks need a couple feet of water to operate and don’t do as well with vegetation, which can foul the propeller or the fin drive system.  A hybrid system, like the one designed for the Old Town BigWater ePDL, resembles an e-bike.  The drive can be pedaled manually, with electric assist, or you can rely on the motor to do all the work.  

A clear trend has surfaced in kayak angling that favors motorization.  For example, the Old Town Autopilot employs a Minn Kota trolling motor with Spot-Lock technology.  Trolling motors are helpful when covering long distances in tidal water.  Having a motor when chasing stripers in Raritan Bay sure beats paddling, but the tradeoff is the added weight of the motor and battery, which can change the kayak’s handling characteristics or exceed the usable weight capacity.  Consider Minn Kota, Newport Vessels, and Torqueedo for kayak-specific electric trolling motors.  Kayak models across many brands are now being specifically designed to accept bow- and stern-mounted motors.

One of the biggest advancements in kayak fishing technology has been Old Town’s implementation of Spot-Lock, which allows anglers to hold the kayak in a steady position over structure. (Photo by Andrew Burke)

What’s the bottom line?  At a basic level, each person is built differently and each kayak model is designed differently.  What works for your fishing buddy may not necessarily work for you.  To find your best match, visit a local kayak dealer and explain your needs—where you intend to fish, how much gear you plan to bring, the way you plan to transport your boat, etc.   The more you share about your unique preferences, the more precisely your outfitter can point you in the right direction. And make sure to demo a kayak before purchasing it!  Most importantly, take the time to make informed decisions, learn from others, and always be safe on the water.

Related Content

Fishing Kayak Buyer’s Guide

Choosing the Right Pedal Fishing Kayak

How to Get Started Tournament Kayak Fishing

Source: https://onthewater.com/a-beginners-guide-to-kayak-fishing

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