Wine and Thunder
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The Niagara region is special — full of history, charm and, of course, the roar of the falls. No matter what side of the border you are on, there is plenty to do.
The history of Niagara goes back to the end of the last ice age when the waterfalls were formed by torrents of melting ice. It was soon after that indigenous peoples inhabited the area. Originally, the falls were where Lewiston, New York, is today, but thousands of years of erosion have pushed them back several miles to their current location. While Samuel De Champlain mentioned hearing about the falls, the first European to visit and document them was Father Louis Hennepin.
Enjoy the journey
On your way to Niagara Falls, make a stop in Port Dalhousie, Ontario, which is part of St. Catharines and the site of the first Welland Canal. There are several shops, including Thistle Bookshop and Café and Your Boutique. Long-time restaurants include Sportscard Harry’s and The Kilt and Clover. The Lakeside Park Carousel has been an inexpensive source of family fun for years. Speaking of Lakeside Park, remember the great Rush song by that name? This was their inspiration, and the late drummer Neil Peart has a pavilion named for him.
Farther along Lake Ontario, there is Port Weller, Ontario. Here you can dock at the St. Catharines Marina on the west side of the Welland Canal. If you are heading through the canal to Lake Erie, this is where you will begin your journey. The Welland Canal is a major landmark of the region. The canal stretches to Port Colborne on Lake Erie. At Lock 3, there is the St. Catharines Museum and viewing station for the ships that travel through the canal. No matter which direction you’re heading, Happy Rolph’s Animal Farm is a favorite with kids.
Niagara-on-the-Lake
Once the capital of Ontario — or Upper Canada, as it was once known — Niagara-on-the-Lake (NOTL) is rich in history and charm. Quaint shops, excellent dining and the Shaw Festival are a must-see. If you dock at the Niagara-on-the-Lake Sailing Club, most of the action is within walking distance. The club, established in the 1950s, is on the site of a former shipyard. Ship building was an important industry in the early days of settlement. Pre-COVID, it was a popular club with Americans, who make up about 20% of members.
The Shaw Festival, named for playwright George Bernard Shaw, features numerous world-class plays of both the past and present, performed at three different theaters. Whether you take in a matinee or evening performance, plan to spend some time strolling along the main street browsing the numerous shops. For lovers of all things Christmas, check out Just Christmas. For French housewares, stop in at Serendipity. Need a hat? Try BeauChapeau. There are several women’s clothing stores including The Butterfly Gallery. For Celtic items, check out the Scottish Loft or Irish Design. Two well-known local artists with their own shops are Angie Strauss and Trisha Romance; both are particular favorites of mine. I was thrilled to receive a Trisha Romance print for Christmas this year.
If you’re worn out from shopping or hungry after a performance, grab a bite at one of the many fine restaurants, such as the Irish Harp, Corks Wine Bar or Treadwell Cuisine.
NOTL is not without its fair share of notorious ghosts. It is known as Canada’s most haunted town. One of the oldest hotels still in operation in Ontario is the Olde Angel Inn. Originally built around 1790, it was badly burned during the War of 1812 and was rebuilt in 1815. The inn is believed to have a resident ghost, Captain Colin Swayze. The story goes that, delayed from joining the British retreat in May 1813 because of a rendezvous with a young woman, the officer hid in a barrel but was stabbed with a bayonet. If you dare, check out the ghost walks or the ghost tours of Fort George.
Whether you go for a ghost tour, a re-enactment, or just a visit, Fort George will take you back in time, as will its American counterpart, Fort Niagara. Look out the ramparts and imagine cannonballs flying across the Niagara River. We weren’t always as friendly as we are now. A momentous time in Niagara history was the War of 1812. To learn about the history of this tragic period in our combined history, check out one of the many museums in this historic region on both sides of the border.
Wine country
NOTL is in the heart of the wine region. Many of the wineries have won international acclaim. Take a tour or dine at a winery. Many, such as Peller Estates, Trius Winery or Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery in St. Davids, have excellent restaurants. Niagara has a strong agricultural base and these wineries, as well as many of the restaurants, feature farm to table dining.
One of the best ways to check out multiple wineries is to take a tour. Some people do wine tours on bikes, which is a beautiful way to see the region, but a bit difficult for transporting wine. If you are a wine lover, check out the Grape and Wine Festival in St. Catharines at the end of September. You can dock at Port Dalhousie and use public transit to get downtown for the parade or other activities. While boaters don’t come to the marinas in the winter, if you do happen to be in the area, check out the ice wine festival in February.
Niagara is particularly known for its ice wine. Most years have ideal growing conditions for this special wine known as liquid gold. Hot summers and cold sharp winters are what is needed. Riesling and Vidal grapes are the varieties used and cannot be picked until the temperature drops to 17.6 Fahrenheit or below. The grapes are generally picked at night by skilled workers, one of the factors that accounts for the high price tag.
The American side of the border is not without its wineries, as well as craft breweries. Check out Arrowhead Spring Vineyards, Bella Rose Vineyard or Black Willow Winery.
Photos Courtesy of Friends of Lakeside Park Carousel Facebook; Visit Niagara Canada; oldfortniagara.org; Ravine Facebook
Photo Courtesy of Niagara Falls Tourism
Border Crossing & COVID-19 Restrictions
The Rainbow Bridge between Niagara Falls, New York, and Niagara Falls, Ontario, is open 24/7 and is now open for tourism purposes. With the U.S./Canada border reopened, you may experience delays at the Niagara Falls Rainbow Bridge border crossing. Plan accordingly and check border crossing times beforehand. Note: Travel to Canada by U.S. citizens requires proof of vaccination, and all persons aged five plus must provide a negative PCR antigen COVID test result obtained 72 hours prior to entering Canada. Travel to the U.S. from Canada requires proof of vaccination.
—Information from Ontario.ca
Destination Ontario
destinationontario.com
Niagara Falls Canada
niagarafallstourism.com
Niagara Falls USA
niagarafallsusa.com
Niagara Parks
niagaraparks.com
Photo Courtesy Niagara-on-the-Lake Sailing Club Facebook
Photo Courtesy of Niagara Falls Tourism
Photo Courtesy of Destination Niagara USA
More stops on the way to the falls
Across the water, at the mouth of the Niagara River, is Youngstown, New York, another charming spot.
As you head south down the river, stop at the floating Smugglers Cove Marina Boat Club on the Canadian side and then head up to historic McFarland House for some tea on its patio.
Head down the river or the Parkway to Queenston on the Canadian Side or Lewiston, New York, on the American; there is an international bridge that connects the two. Coming down the river on the Canadian side, tie up at Queenston Docks, also a popular fishing spot. It’s an easy walk to the Laura Secord Homestead to learn about the famous heroine of the War of 1812. For a spectacular view of the river, head up to Queenston Heights. Like a sentinel standing guard is the Brock monument. If you walk or ride from the river it is definitely a hike so you may want to refresh yourself at the Queenston Heights Restaurant.
On the American side is the charming town of Lewiston. Learn about hydro power at the Niagara Power Vista, take a Whirlpool Jet Boat Tour or visit the unique Art Park. Stroll through the town and check out the shops and restaurants.
Heading south on the scenic Niagara Parkway, you will find the Botanical Gardens, the Butterfly Conservatory and The Floral Clock. Take a ride above the famous whirlpool on the Spanish Aero Car. And then you approach one of the wonders of the world, the Niagara Falls themselves.
Power of the falls
Niagara Falls is actually a group of three waterfalls, the largest of which is Horseshoe Falls straddling both countries. The smaller American Falls and Bridal Veil Falls are on the U.S. side.
Many words have been used to describe the falls. Majestic, stunning and beautiful, to name a few. For me, the word is power. Standing near the falls, you can feel the power radiating from them. I often wonder what the first explorers to the region thought of these loud, rushing waterfalls in a vast wilderness. Much of what I have read of early accounts talks of the height and width but not of the feeling or the emotions that this powerful spot brings out.
Emotional power is not the only type of power produced by the falls. They are well known for the production of hydroelectric power. Originally, the falls provided power for mills and factories, but the range was limited. Nicholas Tesla changed that with his discovery of alternating current, which greatly increased the range.
Learn about the history of the falls over the last 10,000 years in 4D with Niagara’s Fury, or Journey Behind the Falls for a new perspective. To truly feel the power of this natural wonder, take a boat tour under the falls; both countries offer them. The American tours are still called Maid of the Mist, but the Canadians changed the name of its cruises to Niagara City Cruises, although I think most people still use the old name.
Going downtown
Now that you have experienced the power of the falls, it’s time for some unabashedly pure tourist fun. Stroll down Clifton Hill on the Canadian side and play in the arcades or the mini puts, take in a wax museum or survive a zombie attack. Soar above the street on the Niagara Skywheel or race go-karts at the elevated Niagara Speedway.
The American side has its amusements, too, with an amusement park and a Fun Center on Grand Island. Also popular is Goat Island and The Cave of the Winds. Both sides have a way to get a bird’s eye view of the falls: The Americans have the Niagara Observation Tower, and in Canada, we have the Skylon Tower. In addition to the observation deck, the Skylon is famous for its yellow bubble-like elevators that go up the outside of the building and its revolving restaurant. Other restaurants to view the falls from are Table Rock and Queen Victoria Place.
If you or your kids like water parks, check out Great Wolf Lodge. The Americana on Lundy’s Lane also has a water park. If you’re hungry, there is a Boston Pizza inside the hotel. For more of a sports bar feel, there is Chip n Charlies just a short walk down the road. Strada West is another good spot. For Irish food and fun head to Doc Magilligan’s Pub in the Cairn Croft Hotel. One of my favorite wineries is also on Lundy’s Lane: Lundy Manor Wine Cellars. It was here I learned the proper way to open sparkling wine; I had been doing it wrong for years.
Both sides of the border have casinos for those who like the risk of gambling. Even if you aren’t into games of chance, you can check out a show.
The Niagara River extends past the speed bump that is Niagara Falls to Fort Erie, Ontario, and Buffalo, New York. Boating is popular on this stretch as well, with several marinas on both sides of the border, such as Niagara Parks Marina or Mid River Marina.
There is so much to experience in the Niagara Region and so much to learn that one article just won’t cover everything. I have lived in several areas of Niagara and I still haven’t seen or done it all. Whether you are traveling by boat, car or bike, you are in for a special experience.
Photos Courtesy of Whirlpool Jet Boats website; Kalen Emsley Unsplash
